Mounting transducer in forward removable Mirage drive "

I fish solo out of an Oufitter tandem (LOVE the extra space!), and I am working on options for mounting a fishfinder/sonar unit. I want a "no hole" installation that is easy to attach and remove for fishing outings. Another important consideration for me is that I do mostly surf entries and exits, so I worry about a bottom-mounted transducer getting boogered up real quick.

My thought is to just poke a hole in the bottom of one of the removable "plugs" that go in the unused forward Mirage Drive opening, and mount the transducer there, runnig a wire up through the middle of the plug and installing a water-proof connector in the top surface (which tends to get pretty wet). I would then have an intermediate cable running from the "transducer module" (which this removable piece would now be called) to the FF, which I plan to mount in the mast hole using PVC pipe.

Any thoughts?

Also, has anyone figured out a good way to make the Mirage drive plugs more water-tight? My gear gets dunked pretty good when entering the surf or humping through big wind swells because it squirts past the forward Mirage drive plug and into my main storage bin (the forward passenger area)

Thanks!

-Brent

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2007 Mirage Outfitter

Home Depot/Lowes sells pipe insulation that has an adhesive on it and you wrap up the pipe with the stuff rather than the "pool noodle" type. The adhesive may not hold very long so you might want to use goop on the cassette and between wraps as you build it out to fit.

No need to cut any holes to mount a transducer for your fishfinder. We install fishfinders all the time for customers. The transducer will shoot through the hull with very little signal degradation. The only hole is a 5/8" hole for the power and data cables which we have a stopper plug to fill the hole with the cables in the cut outs in the stopper.

PM for more details, the process is simple but takes a long time to type.

Jay
KO Sailing
281-867-8200 office

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Experience is what you get when you don't get what you want.

Thanks - that is encouraging. No temp reading, that way though, right? (not that a thermometer on a long string isn't more effective anyway.....)

I'm assuming that you mount it just forward of the front Mirage drive unit, siliconed to the inside of the hull?

By the way, it looks like Private Messaging has been disabled on this board...

Is there a partcular FF that you recommend, given your experience with the Hobie line? I have an Outfitter and am thinking about building a mast to mount the head unit and install into the mast hole, then use a waterproof connector for the wires. (I want something that is totally and completely removable, and doesn't take up space that can be otherwise used for rod holders or just "elbow room"...

Thanks again!

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2007 Mirage Outfitter

I think that mounting it in the plug is a great idea. Easily to install and remove. If you want to leave the transducer in the hull though, Bird's idea may be better.

As for sealing the drive hole, it will be tough to completely seal it and keep it easily removable. You could def go goop crazy and seal it up in a more permanent way. For removability, I would say the clever use of rubber mounted to the sides and/or top of the plug should work pretty well. Ex. make like a rubber o-ring around the plug and then mount a sheet of rubber to the top of the plug that lays over the edges of the hole on onto the hull. Water will still get by some, but splashing should be eliminated.

Hey SB... I've got a Humminbird 383C mounted in the forward hatch of my WS Tarpon 160i. The transducer is used in a shoot thru hull application as described here above. I have water temp reading, but am typically 1 degree off [warmer] in the temp.

YB

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I've gone to look for myself.
If I should come by here before I get back
please keep me here till I return.

Hobie Mirage Revolution - khaki
Wilderness Systems Tarpon 160i - mango
Walden Adirondack Angler - olive

I think the idea of mounting the entire ff system in the drive plug (cassette?) is very doable and not a bad idea (especially for the tandem). If you went through the top, you could stick the transducer to the bottom, put a battery on top of it (especially AA’s), and rebuild the top to seal it and mount the head. That’d make a totally autonomous, plug-in system. Sweeet! (Yall listening Matt?)

I think my only question is could you see the screen and reach it to manipulate it? I’m big on trying the things you are going to mount in the boat on the water. It’s a real drag when you have done a really sanitary installation only to find that you bark your knuckles on it on each stroke. Less of a problem pedaling, but you get the idea. I initially mounted my ff in one of the two flush mounts on the deck. Then I decided that I wanted to use the other rod holder for a downrigger. Also the ff was getting splashed more than necessary in big water (Yeah, its waterproof, but why push it?) and it was slightly out of reach. So I mounted it in the center hatch and I can’t see why I’d have ever put it anywhere else. I posted a few pics of my mount here a couple of days ago. I’d be happy to share any other details if you’re interested.

http://www.hobiecat.com/community/viewtopic.php?t=6484&start=15&sid=da0cbeb0d076b7106165b27f3bdaf341

If you do decide to mount it in the boat, Goop works great to stick the transducer down. Mine has been stuck to my Cobra XL for 10 years and counting (why yes, as a matter of fact I am the first to post the use of goop for transducers )
But I tried something different with this one. No glue at all! I got the idea from the KFS boards. I cut a divot in a bit of pool noodle and jammed it under the seat. Initially I was just testing it out. But it worked so well that I left it.



I’ve used a number of different ff’s in various boats. All of them see the bottom just fine which is what I’m most interested in (actually changes in the bottom). My latest is a Lowrance M-56 and it’s my favorite. Its their bottom of the line gps/ff and is about par with everybody else’s. BUT its very basic mapping software includes tides and currents from all of the tide stations in the US. I couldn’t find a unit that did that for less than $500. I got it for $160.
The M56 is also the most sensitive ff I’ve had. It’s the first one I could see my bait on the screen and its great for setting the downrigger. It might get even better if I put a bit of Vaseline under the transducer to improve the couple to the hull. The temp reads about a degree higher than the water like YB said.

BTW, how does the tandem handle solo?

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tight lines,

Wali


"for when sleeping I dream of big fish and strong fights"

Sorry for the late reply here, but changed email addresses and... you know the story...

Anyway, the Outfitter handles really well solo. I love the extra room I have when out. My only complaint is that the extreme rear positioning of the weight (particularly if I have a box of gear behind me) causes the front to lift a bit and then slap the water a lot when traveling through rough water, instead of cleanly cutting through it. A minor annoyance, really.

I went out for the first time fishing with another adult recently and it made for a very comfortable platform for the two of us. We spent about 6 hours fishing about a mile and a half off shore (it was a 2.5 mile paddle/pedal out to the reef). I even was able to stand up and cast or scope out the water while the passenger in the front was fishing.

Launching into the surf was a bit tricky - jamming in the mirage drives, deploying the rudder, and paddling all at the same time while a 3' wave is headed straight at you can be a bit daunting in such a pig as the Outfitter, but it sure is stable and dry once out past the breakers. I love this rig!

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2007 Mirage Outfitter

[quote]Anyway, the Outfitter handles really well solo. I love the extra room I have when out. My only complaint is that the extreme rear positioning of the weight (particularly if I have a box of gear behind me) causes the front to lift a bit and then slap the water a lot when traveling through rough water, instead of cleanly cutting through it. A minor annoyance, really.

Have you read RoadRunners excellent review of the tandems? You can find it here:
http://www.hobiecat.com/community/viewtopic.php?t=7970
The use of ballast when solo improves the handling dramatically.
Be careful when putting electronics in the drivewell plug. I have had water fill a plug when the locating pins leaked. They are easily damaged by mishandling or overtightening the cam bolts.

Yea, I came to the same conclusion, and also fishing with someone else made me realize that mounting the FF in the forward plug would mean fishing without my FF, so I've decided to go a more traditional route (though I still LOVE the idea of a totally self-contained "module" that would house the xducer, battery, and wiring and simply plug into a mast-mounted head unit. Totally "Plug & Play"..

At any rate, I've decided to try a "through-the-hull" mount using vaseline as a test, then once I dial in the ideal location for the xducer, bedding it in epoxy.

I've rigged up a 10-pack of AA batteries, which by the way is only 3" x 2.5" x 1.5" in size - VERY easy to hide in a dry bag under one of the hatches or even dropping it into a Hobie "gear bucket".

I plan to mount the head unit on the flat spot just forward of the right side mesh pocket - it seems like an ideal spot for it, and so far I have not felt the need for a rod mount there.... Anyone else with experience mounting in this location?

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2007 Mirage Outfitter

I am in an 07 Outback, but that is similar to where mine is now. I had it on the port side same location and came to realize that I land 90% of my fish on the left.

I have my transducer in epoxy just in front of my drive and get accurate depth readings but I do not get well defined detail. I can even see my crappie jigs under me, but they resemble large bait. I have three similar depth finders that I can change with my Power Boats and the same graph has much better detail when not going through the skin. I am kind of nit-picking here, because in reality it serves my purpose just fine. I would not change it and would do another the same way.


On your batteries. ( just in case you haven't read one of the threads about it) The small 9.6 V rechargeable packs for RC cars will actually power your 12v FF without hurting it. I have called Lowrance, Hummingbird and Furino and all of them said it was within required operating voltage. I still use a deer feeder battery (actually 2 of them) in mine. I can run electronics and Nav lights all night when staying out. I have them mounted low and they act as ballast as well.

I have been looking at the outfitter for a while just for the extra real estate.

Good luck !