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PostPosted: Thu Nov 01, 2007 7:00 pm 
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I saw several cracked rudders at the North Americans in Alameda. Has anyone else stepped up to the plate and changed to the EPO2 rudders?


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 02, 2007 5:50 am 
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See any cracked castings?

Sure fire way to eventually crack a rudder head and/or casting is to load them up without being all the way in the down position and locked.

Check those M20 stocks for voids (air bubbles) in the gelcoat at the seams. Anybody seen that? Fix that before the stock starts delaminating and they'll last a long time.

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PostPosted: Fri Nov 02, 2007 4:25 pm 
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Hey Hammond.
G and J Pedrick are sailing with them currently. They took 2nd in the local Alter Cup Qualifier...right behind an Aclass :evil:

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 04, 2007 8:27 pm 
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OK,
So is second place good or bad? I didn't know if it was sarcasm or pride for either the 20 or the "A" class.

My old stock blades came off when I got home and they are really soft in comparison to the EPO2. I think even though smaller in size, the EPO's will be faster than and point better than the stock blade. So now that you have seen both, what is your call J?


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 13, 2007 7:15 pm 
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I don't regularly sail 20's enough to really tell a difference. I have sailed both and just can't tell.

I'll will tell you one thing for sure. The EPOs don't have the build issues that the 20 rudders have.

The aclass comment above came from my pride in Hobies, and the fact George and Jean are friends and mentors. It's all fun and games! Bruce Edwards who was sailing that A is a super cool guy and an outstanding sailor too. He's doing pretty well at the Aclass worlds right now. Anytime I can jab an A on the Hobie forums, I'm gonna. :D

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 13, 2007 8:50 pm 
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Hey Big Jib,
No issues with castings, ever, but I have gone through several sets of 20 blades. That was the whole reason for looking to an alternative that sailed well, and was more bullet proof. I am a big guy, and I sailed the north americans with a big crew, together on the boat we were 480 lbs or so. Considering that we were traveling down to the hiking strap at times and still fully powered up, there was a great deal of load on the entire boat. We were fast in the windy conditions, at least up wind, but I am sure that we would have been faster with the EPO2s. The only part to show signs of failure was the rudder.

I have sailed the EPO2s in just as much wind and more rough seas and the rudders don't show any signs of failure. The stock 20 blades now flex like the plastic H-16 blades. The EPO2s are stiff. Stiff is fast.

Looking for a Holiday gift from santa? A nice set of EPO2s would be really nice, trust me.

By the way, drilling the EPO2s was a little bit of a trick. Line up the blades to keep the tips of the blades equal and the leading edge of the EPO2 in line with where the stock 20 blade hits the lower part of the lower casting. This pulls the center of load forward (you loose some of the trailing edge of the stock blade) so this may allow some adjustability with the new rudders. On my boat, it made the helm more balenced. I used the old rudders as a guide to drill the lower/front hole and marked the upper/back hole. I then used the upper casting in the full lock down position as a drill guide. This is a two person job as someone needs to stand back and sight the drilling angle and help to hold the casting in place. The mark I made was close, but this method made it really work better. One last note, make sure you check the swing of the castings in both positions prior to drilling anything. Measure twice, drill once. :wink:


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 Post subject: EPO rudders
PostPosted: Mon Dec 03, 2007 9:08 pm 
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Location: Tucson, Arizona
Hobie sent the following as a guide for installing EPO rudders on a H20.

Quote:
This is based on the metal drilling template.
You will have to print, then poke holes to place face down on your guide to
align and transfer the two new hole locations.

A = Original 14 / 16
B = Adjustable 14 / 16
C = Hobie 18
D = H17 style adjustable castings


This goes with a (.pdf) that has the drill guide template. Clicking on the picture should bring up a bigger picture of the drill guide. If anyone wants a copy of the drill guide let me know. I haven't been able to figure out how to use it. :? Thanks in advance for any help :)

Image


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 04, 2007 6:25 am 
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The ruler at the bottom is to ensure it's printed out at the right scale. After printing, compare the printed ruler to a "real" ruler. Adjust the print scale in Acrobat until you get it the right size.

Once you've got it printing out at the right size, print it on cardstock. Cut it out. Bend the tabs down at a 90 degree angle. Place the template on the right side of the rudder head with the tabs over the sides. Making sure to keep the tabs at 90 degrees, use a punch to mark the hole locations. Use a drill press to drill the holes.


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 04, 2007 8:02 am 
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Great info!!!

So who will post this template with the "secret" markings for the 16?

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 04, 2007 1:36 pm 
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Secret?


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 04, 2007 2:02 pm 
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Big Jib & the Uni's wrote:
Great info!!!

So who will post this template with the "secret" markings for the 16?


You mean this thing?

http://www.hobiecat.com/support/tech/rudder.html

Brian C


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 05, 2007 6:47 am 
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Brian,

More good info, thanks!

but I was talking about this...

http://www.hobiecat.com/community/viewtopic.php?t=8219

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 Post subject: Tabs
PostPosted: Wed Dec 05, 2007 10:29 am 
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The template referenced above (with the H20 markings and ruler scale) is a trace of the metal template. To use as a paper template, you would have to extend the "tabs" and fold at the outer end of the tab location shown. I will try to transfer the information from the metal template to the "paper" template. I will post again here when ready.

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 Post subject: Re: Tabs
PostPosted: Fri Jan 04, 2008 2:31 pm 
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mmiller wrote:
I will try to transfer the information from the metal template to the "paper" template. I will post again here when ready.


Any success transfering the metal to paper template?


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 Post subject: EPO H20 rudders
PostPosted: Mon Mar 24, 2008 8:30 pm 
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Forgive me for nagging but I gather from the lack of response :( regarding the transfer from a metal template to paper it's not going to happen?

Is it possible to have Hobie Cat drill a set of EPO rudders for a H20?


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