Centerboard well padding

The centerboards on my '86 17 rattle around in the wells. I can't imagine this is fast. An inquiry with the dealer said not to worry about them cuz if I put some padding in the wells, it is tough on the fiberglass when rocks get caught up in there.

But I gotta believe having the centerboards flopping around like that in the wells cannot be fast! Has anyone had any success shimming the inside of the wells to take out the slop? (I understand shimming for canting purposes is illegal. This would be for "slop" purposes.)

Thanks in advance.

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Peter Nelson

I'm guessing that when the boards are loaded up (i.e. sailing upwind or on a beam reach), they aren't banging around. Probably the only time they rattle is in light wind going downwind, or if you're just floating around. If you're in a racing situation, then when you turn downwind, you should raise them anyway. So, personally, I don't think I would worry about it. If you try to shim them, there's probably more of a chance of them getting stuck or scraped up.

One place you could possibly try putting some shim material would be on the centerboard itself. You would have to pull the board completly out of the boat. Then you could place some material (possibly rubber) on the "tongue" portion of the board that sticks up into the well.

Again, it's not something that I would worry about myself, the boards on the 17 are sloppy, but if it really bothers you, that may be a solution. I would stay away from anything that increases the chance of the board getting stuck.

sm

Peter,

I agree with you...it can't be fast!!! Some will tell you that shimming your rudders is useless for the same reason; i.e. when loaded up, up wind, they're in a stable position. I "think" if the boards or rudders are hunting, because of slop, downwind then shim them.

Trick learned from the dinghy sailors is to shim your trunks with teflon tape (jap tape).

http://www.apsltd.com/Tree/d3000/e2132.asp

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HCANA Class Member

I would agree that centerboard/daggerboard slop is not good, but on the 17 (and 21) the centerboard system is very susceptible to getting stuck. Even without shims, you have to be very careful, especially on beaches with pebbles or sand. It takes very little debris to get the board stuck, and when that happens, there's no way to pull the board up and out of the trunk to clear it as with a daggerboard. The only option is to drive the board down which scrapes it up and can potentially damage the top of the board.

Shimming might help performance, but it also may cause a big hassle too.

sm

My brand new '07 17's boards rattle worse than any other one I've sailed.

When I put it back together next spring, I'm going to experiment with some carpet / teflon tape. Maybe just a bit of carpet around the opening in the hull would work.

Might even keep the pebbles out.

So I am hearing teflon tape and carpet. Anyone got any other suggestions?

My 11 yr. old son asked me this morning if water doesn't get up in the wells when sailing and doesn't that slow me down. (I tell you -- the boy is good!) That got me thinking -- if you could install kind of a soft, bushy carpet or something that might close off that space between well and board. Suggestions?

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Peter Nelson

I like the jap tape idea as it has been used before for similar purpose. I think I may investigate that.

As for shimming the boards, it isn't just about slop. It is also about water circulating up inside the well in the space between the board and the well. For example, going upwind the board is loaded. I will accept the notion that it won't hunt. But there is still a gap between the board and well that can cause turbulence around the board & hull. That can't be fast!

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Peter Nelson

Peter, check the monohulls at SSP. I think the Lasers, and FJ's have a vinyl gasket that fits on the bottom of the well. It forms a tight seal with the blade, and closes off the opening with the board up.

Good idea. Think I will join in on the possible modifications.

My 1986, has a tighter than normal opening. Rocks are a real problem. I have to carry a screwdriver on board, to force the board down if it sticks up.

Caleb

Here's the rule in question:


I think that pretty much says, "no gaskets".

Does the rule say that the pads need to be in the front/rear 100 mm of the board, or in the middle? (avoiding the ends)

I remember reading that rule as I was researching this item. Quite frankly, I am a little confused by it as well.

It reads pretty clearly -- seems like we gotta stay within 4" (+/-) of the front of the well and the rear of the well.

What I can't figure out is why? I can understand the canting. That is performance based. And I guess what I was proposing to do (which it now sounds like I can't!) would be performance based, albeit to a smaller degree. But it is unclear to me why they wrote it that way.

I suppose I could always email Mal Gray over in Oz. He sits on the rules committee and regularly shoots down alllll of my great ideas!!

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Peter Nelson

Boy, ain't that the truth. BTW, don't go looking in the trunks of the 20's around here, people are trying to protect their boards.

Didn't mmiller post somewhere else about the M20 factory kit that fits the rear/bottom of the trunk? Or at least, I've seen them installed there. Albiet not like a complete gasket in anyway I've seen them within that 4" zone. My used boat came with them in that position and it had been and has been to an NAC competition. I know it doesn't apply necessarily to the 17, but grasping them at the rear helps prevent side to side movement. AND, how could any material that goes inside the trunk be construed as a gasket. If it was thick enough to prevent water from shooting in when the boards are up seems like you'd never be able to push the board down past them.

So ya, why would anyone (another competitor) care?

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Whole different ball game, John. That rule applies only to the 17's.

Remember - 17's have centerboards (that pivot), 20's have daggerboards.

DOH!...never mind, I'll go back to my proper forum now

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