Batten tension - effect on tacking ease

I felt had become pretty good at tacking my 17. In flat water with 12k of wind I can go from wire to wire in about 13 seconds. I'd have the occasional stall, but I was feeling pretty good about my ability.

Then a few outings ago, I began to lose my touch. This coincided with a bit of additional tension I added to the battens. It think it may be delaying the "pop". I am wondering if someone has batten set-up advice specific to the H17, and can comment on the likelihood that batten tension and tacking difficulty are related.

Similar topic: I have a cool pic somewhere of Matt Bounds at the top of a sizable wave in the SF bay at the 17 / Tiger worlds. So Matt, I am hoping you can answer me this; - How on earth do you tack consistently in that larger, high frequency, SF bay stuff? The usual roll tacking tricks don't seem to cut it.

Peace,

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Dan Peake
2003 H17SE
2005 FX1

I can't answer your question D, but somewhere I do have a nice pic of Bounds "sailing" under the GG Bridge with a few of his buddies on a big orange power boat.

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That's Rick Pettit in the first photo, punching through the tour boat wake. Those things were a pain in the butt.

The batten tension may have an effect, but it's mainly in lighter air that you have a problem with "the pop". Ususally it's the postive mast rotation that won't let the mast rotate early that causes the problem. I've found that I have to give the boom a shove from the new windward side (right after I've come under the boom) to get the mast to rotate and prevent the boat from weather-vaning.

The importance of letting out a lot of mainsheet in the tack cannot be overemphasized. I use a Harken Ratchamatic lower main block, so as soon as I let off tension, it free-wheels out. Combine that with a really "soft" mainsheet, like Swiftcord, Salsa or Bzz line and the main runs out like silk. You've got to be careful not to drop the line from the wire, or you'll go swimming.

Tacking in SF Bay wasn't too bad - it was just sloppy. You had to have a lot of speed going into the tack, let out a lot of mainsheet and make sure the boat was pointed on the new heading by the time you started sheeting in on the new tack.

I seem to remember reading somewhere that most 17 sailors could tack the boat in about 14 seconds...... Randy Smythe could do it in 7.

I wish I knew what HE Knows.

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Thanks to all for for the replies. Jeremy - that is the wave picture I was referring to - All this time I thought it was Matt!

And Matt thanks for the info. I think you have identified my problem, my lower block has the appearance of "entry-level" It was stock on my H17 which was born a SPORT. In addition, the line is fuzzy and a little stiff (Boater's World .375 line selection was limited to red or blue). I am going to shop for a new lower block and line at the Sail expo tomorrow in Oakland - Fun!

Important question, what size line do you use? I prefer a larger diameter to reduce hand fatigue, but maybe you've got some comments on that.

Thanks,

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Dan Peake
2003 H17SE
2005 FX1

5/16" (8 mm) is the way to go on the mainsheet. Upwind in a blow, I'll crank it down, cleat it and leave it there. There's no way to hold on to it uncleated for any length of time, because most of the force being exterted is to bend the Comptip.

The softer lines mentioned above are easier on the hands. They aren't cheap, though. Swiftcord is $2.01/ft, Salsa is $1.28/ft, Bzz is $0.67/ft. I use all three (Swiftcord on the Tiger, Salas on the 17, Bzz on the 16 and 14). Of all of them, Bzz has turned out to be one of the better values. It doesn't seem to wear as bad as the other two.

Matt also rolls the boat very hard; he is still on the wire well into the tack. The boat will come around pretty quick if you want to be that aggressive, just don’t mess it up.
I have a technique you might try. Before starting the tack I put the sheet in my steering hand leaving the other hand free to grab the trap handle. Then as I put the helm down the sheet plays out automatically. Some will argue that this results in the sheet being eased too soon. I feel that it works because as the boat swings into the wind the apparent wind moves aft.

Dan's thinking about this photo of me:


I was OCS in that race and trying real hard to catch up. It didn't work.

I do what Dan does with the mainsheet - I hold it (uncleated) in my aft hand with the tiller. As I come in off the wire, it lets out, but as you can tell in the photo, the boat's already head to wind by the time I'm coming in off the wire.

All that stuff sounds like good advice on the 14 too.

Just make sure to make it to the other side in time - did that once and caught the trap hook on the shroud, which jerked the sheet into the cleat. Results are self-explainatory:


(yes, I know, uncleat the traveller)

I've never had an issue tacking the 17 in chop or heavy winds - just be sure to let out the main a LOT (more than you think is needed) when you come head to wind, and sheet in slowly to build speed so you dont stall out the rudders and weathervane. The trick isn't getting the 17 to come around, it's getting it to stay there...

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Tim
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