Hobie Cat Forums

It is currently Thu Sep 18, 2014 3:54 pm

All times are UTC - 8 hours [ DST ]




Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 72 posts ]  Go to page Previous  1, 2, 3, 4, 5  Next
Author Message
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu May 22, 2008 10:37 am 
Offline
Site Rank - Old Salt

Joined: Sun Mar 16, 2008 10:46 pm
Posts: 467
I don't know about the differences between the Club version and the other(s), but the Club tramp is simple and efficient.

Sailing Texas has a video showing rope tightening on the tramp using two pairs of vice grips that looked extreme. There appears to be a natural bind with the grommets that doesn't require that much force with the Club tramp. One pair of vice grips to lock the rope down while threading is an extra hand.

It's a good design.

@ gattler

Using a mast stand or the cradle or both? Is the 16 cradle made to fit over the traveler bar? The 16 cradle (part 3175?) fits on the rear crossbar. If you have the time, a pic, part #, or further explanation? Thanks in advance.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri May 23, 2008 8:32 pm 
Offline
Site Rank - Old Salt

Joined: Sun Mar 16, 2008 10:46 pm
Posts: 467
Quote:
Is the 16 cradle made to fit over the traveler bar?


Looking closer at the pic in the catalog, it apparently is so.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat May 24, 2008 5:28 am 
Offline
Authorized Hobie Dealer

Joined: Mon Jun 02, 2003 7:35 pm
Posts: 1370
Location: 315 N. Hwy 79 Panama City Beach, FL 32413 850-235-2281
yes it will, not sure on this but you might be able to use 2 H16 mast cradles in the rear if you needed to take the mast apart.

_________________
Brad Stephens
Brad@sunjammers.com
(866) 786-5266 <--- Advice HOTline
http://www.sunjammers.com
www.facebook.com/sunjammers
Image


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat May 24, 2008 9:05 pm 
Offline
Site Rank - Old Salt

Joined: Sun Mar 16, 2008 10:46 pm
Posts: 467
Thanks, Brad.

Am using a trailer crutch/cradle and ordered the 16 mast cradle for the rear. Plus the halyard tied to the cleats after going through the pulleys at the top of the mast seems to be holding the halves together OK. Mast halves come apart and go together fairly easily -- almost too easily.

I would tinker around and make a mast cradle myself but too much sweat equity involved.

However...

I do have one other question about mounting the traveler kit.

The swivel cleat comes in one bag and the mounting base for it in another -- and in the swivel cleat bag there is what appears to be an extra mounting base.

I am going to assume that you discard this "extra" base. The instructions don't say.

The base and the swivel cleat are mounted to the crossbar with the same set of screws, according to the instructions.

Thank you for the pics, btw. Extremely helpful, they are.

My old pop rivet gun is ready to roll!


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun May 25, 2008 6:25 am 
Offline
Authorized Hobie Dealer

Joined: Mon Jun 02, 2003 7:35 pm
Posts: 1370
Location: 315 N. Hwy 79 Panama City Beach, FL 32413 850-235-2281
the swivel cam cleat come with a round spacer looking thing it will not be used. Yes the cleat is help to the mounting plate with the same screws.

Old pop rivet gun? I hope it a big one. Make sure the head of the rivet gun stays in contact with the rivet the entire time, or else the rivet will not be flush when "popped" and he traveler car will not clear the top. If the rivet gun will not fit in the track you will need to make a spacer out of some washers.

Give me a call if you have any questions and I will try to explain more.

_________________
Brad Stephens
Brad@sunjammers.com
(866) 786-5266 <--- Advice HOTline
http://www.sunjammers.com
www.facebook.com/sunjammers
Image


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue May 27, 2008 9:32 am 
Offline
Site Rank - Old Salt

Joined: Sun Mar 16, 2008 10:46 pm
Posts: 467
A good point about pop rivet gun!

I did a lot of pop rivet work while making ductwork in a sheet metal shop when younger and many times had rivets came out when I got too much in a hurry and didn't hold the gun down securely to the metal while squeezing the handles.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jun 01, 2008 9:13 am 
Offline
Site Rank - Admiral

Joined: Thu Jan 17, 2008 8:42 pm
Posts: 209
Location: Irvine, California
Geeez...

Why'd you hve to post the picture of the traveller??

Now, I want one, but have a CLASSIC, so I guess I am going to have to come up with another design concept.

Anyone have any ideas how to make a traveller work/look good on a CLASSIC?


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jun 01, 2008 6:50 pm 
Offline
Site Rank - Admiral

Joined: Sun Jul 15, 2007 5:31 pm
Posts: 239
Location: Central Maine
zzcoreyzz wrote:
Geeez...

Why'd you hve to post the picture of the traveller??

Now, I want one, but have a CLASSIC, so I guess I am going to have to come up with another design concept.

Anyone have any ideas how to make a traveller work/look good on a CLASSIC?
Yup, I too have a classic. In order to do away w/ the velcro straps, I am installing lacing posts, (see the H20 rear crossbar detail in catalog for part numbers for posts/rivets) which will enable lacing up the rear like a Getaway or H20. Per Matt Miller's suggestion.

I will place the posts at the rear of the crossbar, about midway around, (opposite side of slot), rivited at the same interval as the straps. I was originally going to go with 4 posts, but I think I will double up at the strap locations. I think 8 posts will hold stronger and more evenly than just the four. Once posts are installed, I will use some 3/16" lacing line, more or less following the lacing instructions from the Getaway assem manual. Have yet to do it, but it should work fine, and hold better tramp tension than the velcro. Parts are in I think, just need to go get them.

_________________
Jim

2007 Hobie Wave


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jun 02, 2008 10:56 am 
Offline
Site Rank - Old Salt

Joined: Sun Mar 16, 2008 10:46 pm
Posts: 467
This traveler kit installation is not easy.

The track slot is 3/8" wide and 3/8" deep and most good pop rivet guns are not that narrow or extend that deep.

My gun -- after putting washers in as spacers -- will just barely grab the end of the rivet. The gun is a professional model. At any rate, I have backed off until I get the right tool or rivet.

EDIT:

Got it!

1. Removed 3/16" nose from new $9.95 Sears gun and filed down to less than width of track slot with my new $6.95 file.
2. Because still not elevated enough, drilled 3/16" hole in scrap piece of steel that is just thick enough to keep the rivet gun from touching the bar. Then hacksawed small rectangle out of the scrap metal with hole in center to fit in slot.

With two-handed power squeeze on the gun, it riveted OK. And pushing down on the gun is a must as handles are squeezed to keep the rivet from jumping out of the hole.

Whatever is between the rivet head and the gun -- whether washer or steel plate with 3/16" hole like I made -- has to be flat and about the same size as the rivet's diameter. Because it compresses the head. If anything other than flat surface with as near 3/16" in diameter hole for rivet is used, a raised impression is left on the head after you pop the rivet... and the traveler has something to hit.

In other words, something that looks about like the flat surface of the nosetip that comes with the rivet gun is needed.


Last edited by JJ on Fri Jun 20, 2008 12:22 am, edited 3 times in total.

Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jun 02, 2008 8:19 pm 
Offline
Site Rank - Admiral

Joined: Thu Jan 17, 2008 8:42 pm
Posts: 209
Location: Irvine, California
Jim,

Sure, that sounds like it will work, but it seems like the whole car top portabilty/assembly/disassembly takes a big hit. And, of course, that is a big reason I bought a CLASSIC. No trailers and insurance. no boat ramps, no storage problems.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jun 03, 2008 3:50 am 
Offline
Site Rank - Admiral

Joined: Sun Jul 15, 2007 5:31 pm
Posts: 239
Location: Central Maine
zzcoreyzz wrote:
Jim,

Sure, that sounds like it will work, but it seems like the whole car top portabilty/assembly/disassembly takes a big hit. And, of course, that is a big reason I bought a CLASSIC. No trailers and insurance. no boat ramps, no storage problems.
I see your point. For me that is not so much an issue, as I keep it in one location assembled all season. True, it would be a bit of a pain to unlace/relace, but may not be that bad either. It is only the rear. It may take an xtra 5 min? Take a look at the Getaway assmebly manual in the support side of this site, it will give you an idea what is inolved. Eight posts instead of the 10 on Getaway.

Once I actually do the mod, I will post my results, and I will time the process once I have it down.

_________________
Jim

2007 Hobie Wave


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jun 03, 2008 8:10 am 
Offline
Site Rank - Captain

Joined: Fri Apr 13, 2007 10:54 pm
Posts: 50
Location: BC, Canada
Please do! Count me in as another Classic owner interested in this upgrade.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jun 07, 2008 9:12 am 
Offline
Site Rank - Admiral

Joined: Thu Jan 17, 2008 8:42 pm
Posts: 209
Location: Irvine, California
Thanks, Jim,

I look forward to it.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jun 08, 2008 9:03 am 
Offline
Site Rank - Admiral

Joined: Sun Jul 15, 2007 5:31 pm
Posts: 239
Location: Central Maine
wannahobie wrote:
zzcoreyzz wrote:
Jim,

Sure, that sounds like it will work, but it seems like the whole car top portabilty/assembly/disassembly takes a big hit. And, of course, that is a big reason I bought a CLASSIC. No trailers and insurance. no boat ramps, no storage problems.
I see your point. For me that is not so much an issue, as I keep it in one location assembled all season. True, it would be a bit of a pain to unlace/relace, but may not be that bad either. It is only the rear. It may take an xtra 5 min? Take a look at the Getaway assmebly manual in the support side of this site, it will give you an idea what is inolved. Eight posts instead of the 10 on Getaway.

Once I actually do the mod, I will post my results, and I will time the process once I have it down.
Well, finally got the parts and did it! Boy those monel rivets drive hard!! Anyway, lacing posts are installed, lacing in place, very easy to lace, took m about 10 min, but only because I needed to figure out the pattern w/ the eight posts, and cut lines to lenght, etc. Realistically, probably could be undone in about 30 sec or less, to re lace maybe a couple min once it is down.
So, no more velcro straps! Traveller-ready!
I will have pics, part no's, instructions to post soon. Off to the lake to sail now :D

_________________
Jim

2007 Hobie Wave


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Wed Jun 11, 2008 5:55 pm 
Offline
Site Rank - Admiral

Joined: Sun Jul 15, 2007 5:31 pm
Posts: 239
Location: Central Maine
Traveller kit on SE / Classic Wave? Yes it is possible!
Eliminate the straps! Use H20 lacing eyelet posts and lacing...
Image
alternative to lacing, shockcord as I switched to..
Image

I originally documented it all here, but decided to move it to a NEW topic: http://www.hobiecat.com/community/viewtopic.php?p=52178#52178

_________________
Jim

2007 Hobie Wave


Last edited by wannahobie on Sun Jul 13, 2008 6:54 pm, edited 2 times in total.

Top
 Profile  
 
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 72 posts ]  Go to page Previous  1, 2, 3, 4, 5  Next

All times are UTC - 8 hours [ DST ]


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 1 guest


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum

Search for:
Jump to:  
Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Group