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PostPosted: Tue Jan 25, 2005 5:24 pm 
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Joined: Mon Oct 11, 2004 12:24 am
Posts: 143
Location: Edmond Oklahoma
I Used Git rot on my 1973 H-16 port hull and will recomend it :D The delaminated area is very strong mixing was easy. The bottom glass was cracked probably from being used as a step to get on and off the boat. The resign flowed very well and is extremliy solid I installed a deck port it took some doing. I had to buy a longer machine screws. After making my cuts I understand Why Matt states in the thread never sail with delaminaed hulls. If you do you probably won't make it back in, if you do it will most lilely be minus part of your hull. I do sugest you buy more git rot than you think you will need. I went with week wait ordered online for a pint and needed two, so I ened up driving a couple of hours to git some more :roll: I hate starting somthing I can't finish. The thing I liked best about the Git rot was the simplicity of mixing.


Thanks for all the help

Todd


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 Post subject: Git Rot?
PostPosted: Tue Jan 25, 2005 6:11 pm 
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Site Rank - Deck Hand

Joined: Mon Dec 20, 2004 1:47 pm
Posts: 17
Location: Southern Colorado USA
OK so, I'm putting down $70 for a gallon of West Systems 105 Epoxy resin for extensive repair work (see long list of hull repairs - post) and I'm wondering if I can use it here...maybe thinned? If so, what do I thin with?

On a related issue, can I use the same stuff to do the tramp frame epoxy upgrade I've read about? If I do this, will I have an difficulties replacing a tramp in about two years? BTW I plan to use the slower 205 hardner.

Thanks again,

Mitch


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 26, 2005 2:12 am 
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Joined: Mon Oct 11, 2004 12:24 am
Posts: 143
Location: Edmond Oklahoma
I think the west sys would work great. Why are you using the slower hardner? How big is the delaminated aera? I stated that I over shot two holes. I redrilled all of the hole paritaly and gave them a shot of colored resign with a turkey injector with modifications. They turned out great very close in color, will see with time :)

Todd


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 26, 2005 6:04 am 
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Site Rank - Deck Hand

Joined: Mon Dec 20, 2004 1:47 pm
Posts: 17
Location: Southern Colorado USA
I'm using the 205 for the other repair work I have to do and for the possibility of epoxying the frame. Can I thin with acetone?

Thanks again for the advice 8)

Mitch


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 26, 2005 6:05 am 
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Site Rank - Deck Hand

Joined: Mon Dec 20, 2004 1:47 pm
Posts: 17
Location: Southern Colorado USA
Oops,

The delam area is about 6" x 18"

Mitch


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 26, 2005 6:28 am 
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Hobie Approved Guru

Joined: Mon Jul 14, 2003 7:11 pm
Posts: 4641
Location: Detroit, MI
I've used the WEST System epoxies for almost 30 years. I've never done a delam repair with them, but I've done just about everything else:

Repaired broken front pylon "shoe" on a 16 with carbon fiber tows

Glued the tramp frame together on a 14 (rock solid - use the colliodial silica thickening agent)

Built a sailbox that's lasted 21 years - not a nail or screw in it other than the door hinges. Been extensively modified on two occasions - once to fit under a 17 and again to fit on a new trailer.

Go to the Gougeon Bros. WEST System website http://www.westsystem.com/ and they have all the info you need.

Here's what they say about thinning their products:
Quote:
There are epoxy-based products specifically designed to penetrate and reinforce rotted wood. These products, basically an epoxy thinned with solvents, do a good job of penetrating wood. But the solvents compromise the strength and moisture barrier properties of the epoxy. WEST SYSTEM epoxy can be thinned with solvents for greater penetration, but not without the same compromises in strength and moisture resistance. Acetone, toluene or MEK have been used to thin WEST SYSTEM epoxy and duplicate these penetrating epoxies with about the same effectiveness. If you chose to thin the epoxy, keep in mind that the strength and moisture protection of the epoxy are lost in proportion to the amount of solvent added.

There is a better solution to get good penetration without losing strength or moisture resistance. We recommend moderate heating of the repair area and the epoxy with a heat gun or heat lamp. The epoxy will have a lower viscosity and penetrate more deeply when it is warmed and contacts the warmed wood cavities and pores. Although the working life of the epoxy will be considerable shortened, slower hardeners (206, 207, 209) will have a longer working life and should penetrate more than 205 Hardener before they begin to gel. When the epoxy cures it will retain all of its strength and effectiveness as a moisture barrier, which we feel more than offsets any advantages gained by adding solvents to the epoxy.



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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 26, 2005 10:46 am 
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Joined: Tue Jan 25, 2005 8:28 am
Posts: 35
Just remember that if you use any type of epoxy you shoulduse fiberglass tape, at least I think thats what its called. The very soft white stuff to make epoxy less britle.

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"I'm just tryin' to keep everything in balance, Woodrow. You do more work than you got to, so it's my obligation to do less." Augustus 'Gus' McCrae


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