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PostPosted: Fri Aug 22, 2008 2:46 pm 
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Location: Columbus Ohio
Is there a secret to threading the bungee through the front cross beam. For some reason, I think I have two seperate bungees up front. One side works fine, but the other side is spent and when I pull it out of the cross bar, it has no recoil and just keeps coming out until it stops. Of the two holes on the cross bar, which one do you thread the bungee through, fore or aft?


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 22, 2008 3:08 pm 
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Yes, the 20 has two shock cords in the forward crossbar. You need to remove both end caps.

Each cord dead ends at the casting it exits from... travels across to the opposite end of the bar, passes through a turning block and then back across and out the hole.

You can see a bit of the internal parts in the parts guides / page 60 in the lower left.

http://static.hobiecat.com/2010_archive/support/pdfs/PARTS_20.pdf

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 22, 2008 7:43 pm 
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Stopper ball goes in the aft hole.

I was pretty freaked before I drilled out the rivets, once you've got it apart it all makes sense, just buy enough bungee to do both sides.

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 26, 2008 3:28 pm 
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Hey Fellas,

This was a timely thread. I'm breathing life back into an old H-20 too. I've got the same problem with the shock cord as Buzzman. Parts should arrive tomorrow. I've never drilled out rivets in anything that I cared about. I'd appreciate it if one of you could advise me as to what size drill bit to use and what type of rivet tool I need to put the end plate back on. Is there anything special that I need to know about this? Thanks a ton!

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 27, 2008 5:18 am 
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"Drilling Out" the rivet is somewhat of a misnomer. Really what you want to do is drill off the head of the rivet, then drive the remaining shank into the part with a punch. I usually use a drill bit that is close to or slightly less than the diameter of the rivet head. Go slow and use sharp bits.

For reinstalling the end cap, you really only need to use aluminum rivets since there is virtually no load on the endcap, the rivet is just holding it in place. So your basic HomeDepot hand pop-rivet gun will work. Keep in mind though, that if you ever have to pop stainless rivets, the hand rivet gun will be difficult to use.

sm


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 27, 2008 7:17 am 
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MVD,

I put mine back on with #10, S/S, pan-head, phillips, self tapping screws. Shortest ones I could find.

I don't like pulling rivets unless they're structurally necessary.

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 27, 2008 7:34 am 
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Also, the nice thing about using a screw is that if you ever have to take the end cap off at the beach (if your bungee breaks), you can just unscrew it, you don't need a drill, punch, and rivet gun.

The downside to using a screw is it can come inadvertently unscrewed or strip out if you cross thread it, a rivet won't. Both fasteners have their pluses and minuses.

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 27, 2008 8:30 am 
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Quote:
The downside to using a screw is it can come inadvertently unscrewed or strip out if you cross thread it, a rivet won't. Both fasteners have their pluses and minuses.


Self tapping screws very rarely loosen up, and unlike machine screws can't be cross threaded, as we're cutting the threads in the previously un-tapped casting. The casting has a small tab for connection to the beam, so be careful to make sure the casting hole and hole in beam are lined up and don't run it in with a screw gun. Use a #1 or #2 screwdriver and thread it in slow. There is a danger of breaking the tab off the casting. Screw in until the head touches the beam and stop.

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 27, 2008 12:28 pm 
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Thanks a lot for the advise. I think I can take it from here. I bought my boat over the internet while I was doing a one year Air Force tour in Korea. I hadn't even seen it until a few days ago when I got home on Aug 20th. I've already replaced all the standing rigging, trap wires, and a bunch of other minor pieces. The boat was pretty well jury rigged and I've just about got this beast back to original Hobie specifications. If all goes well I'll take her out for a shakedown cruise this weekend. I'm eager to try out my new trapeze harnesses. I looking forward to meeting some of you guys at some regattas next summer. :D

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 28, 2008 9:58 am 
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Quote:
Self tapping screws very rarely loosen up, and unlike machine screws can't be cross threaded, as we're cutting the threads in the previously un-tapped casting.


I agree, the first time you put the screw in, you're cutting new threads, so there is nothing to cross thread. However, any time after that, if you take the screw out, you should be sure to pick up the same threads that you already cut. If you repeatedly cut new threads in the same hole, you could strip it out. It wouldn't be the end of the world if you did that anyway, you'd just need to use a rivet.

sm


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