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PostPosted: Mon Apr 25, 2005 1:50 pm 
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I have the old 2 piece gudgeon system on my 16. Screws are frozen and I think I'm getting some leakage from this spot so I am preparing to drill them out and replace gudgeons with the newer one piece gudgeon. Does anybody have any experience with this modification. If so, I'd really appreciate some guidance for this procedure and things to be careful/mindful of. I'd rather find out about possible pitfalls before I start drilling and tapping. THANKS!


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 25, 2005 4:44 pm 
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Yeah, the holes on the one piece gudgeon will not match the holes for the original ones. You will have to enlarge the holes on the gudgeon with a drill. Pretty easy to do. Be carefull drilling out the old screws. I'm pretty sure there is some kind of blind nut secured on the inside of the transom. If you break this loose, you will never get a new screw to hold tight. Seal everything with a generous amount of 3M 5200 sealant. I replaced mine this year, and it seems to have removed alot of slop from my rudders. The new gudgeons come with pretty good instructions on how to enlarge the holes to fit.

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 Post subject: one more idea
PostPosted: Tue Apr 26, 2005 11:38 am 
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install inspection portals on the stern for access to internal transom. Drill through and use stainless bolts and nylock nuts on the inside of the boat.

For more information on installing ports and good reasons to (other than to install the gudgeons) see other parts of the forum where this has been discussed :)

Good luck!

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 26, 2005 12:01 pm 
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I'd like to do this without installing ports. Has anybody had success without installing ports.


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 26, 2005 12:04 pm 
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Matt miller.. please weigh in on this topic! I'd love to hear your advice on how to install these gudgeons. THANKS!!!


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 26, 2005 12:54 pm 
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Sounds like you got most of the info here. Other than removing the screws easily.

I am no expert on removing screws that are frozen in the backing plate in the hull, but... lots of thread oil first. Tap the screw driver with a hammer as you try to turn them out. If the head breaks off, try vise grips. If you have to drill, get a really good bit and then mabe an easy out tool. Worst case is having to drill through and then use a larger screw (1/4-20). Worst worse case is that the drill wonders off the screw and into the boat. Grind the end of the screw flat then punch a center and try again.

Good luck.

Once the screws are out, the new gudgeon casting installation is easy.

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 Post subject: New gudgeons
PostPosted: Tue Apr 26, 2005 2:16 pm 
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There is a piece of marine plywood and then a piece of stainless sheet metal that the screws thread into. Keep screws in the other holes while working on problem ones so that the stainless sheet doesn't get pushed off of the plywood. Don't be afraid to enlarge the holes in the plywood. You can epoxy the screws in when you are done. If you ever need to take them out, heat up the screw heads with a propane torch till its good and hot (epoxy starting to smoke a bit) and then back them right out of perfectly formed threads.

On my 14 I clamped the old gudgeon to the back of the new one with vise grips and used it as a guide to re-drill the holes. I also had to use a big drill bit in a drill press as a crude milling machine to make more room for the screw heads in some areas. Clean them up with a file and then spray them with black appliance (refrigerator) epoxy spray paint from home depot so they look new again.

good luck
Bill


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 Post subject: Transom
PostPosted: Tue Apr 26, 2005 4:18 pm 
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The metal in the Hobie transom is actually aluminum. There are two seperate plates of 1/4 inch thick aluminum that the screws are threaded into

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Hobie Cat USA


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 Post subject: Ports?
PostPosted: Wed Apr 27, 2005 7:06 am 
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Matt,

Are ports necessary.


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 Post subject: Are ports necessary?
PostPosted: Wed Apr 27, 2005 8:54 am 
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Are ports necessary?

Only if you have to through bolt or if you knock one of the aluminum plates off / loose inside. Not for any other reason.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Apr 28, 2005 11:17 am 
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Mmiller
Quote:
The metal in the Hobie transom is actually aluminum. There are two seperate plates of 1/4 inch thick aluminum that the screws are threaded into

How is the aluminum plate installed alum palate marine plywood then alum plate or is two plates for the upper and lower gudgeon? And what about the drain? I have a striped bolt in my starboard drain that I have to keep a close Eye on no leaks as long as I keep fresh sealant on it.

Thanks

Todd


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PostPosted: Wed May 04, 2005 10:25 am 
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First - Todd, hope all is going well. If the "drain housing" threads are stripped, I think that the "drain housing" itself can be replaced. I think it is a relatively inexpensive part (as Hobie Parts go). You know, no more than a couple hundred dollars :lol:

Second - to sideshore. There are many good reasons to install deck plates. Keeping the hulls really aired out and dry is one of them. Using the Cat-Bags, they make great storage. They allow inspection and, in this case, an excellent way to mount the one piece gudgeon. They are EASY to do.

An old A-fleeter buddy of mine suggests that you make an aluminum plate for the inside of the transom that is a little larger than the base of the one-piece gudgeon with holes matched up to the gudgeon. Drill right through the hull- nice and straight - attached the gudgeon with nylock nuts and stainless bolts.

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 Post subject: Aluminum
PostPosted: Wed May 04, 2005 2:26 pm 
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From the outside going in...

Gel Coat
Glass layers
Putty (to seat wood)
Wood
Thin Putty (holding alum to wood)
Aluminum
Putty (thin over aluminum and around edges to fair for glass layer)
Glass...

I think.

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Hobie Cat USA


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 03, 2012 3:07 pm 
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I just looked at a pic of one piece gudgeon, do I have to use the holes supplies in the gudgeon and fight with old screws ?

Can I put mounting holes wherever I want in the gudgeon ?


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 Post subject: Re: Aluminum
PostPosted: Mon Jun 04, 2012 2:57 pm 
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Location: Saratoga Springs, NY
mmiller wrote:
From the outside going in...

Gel Coat
Glass layers
Putty (to seat wood)
Wood
Thin Putty (holding alum to wood)
Aluminum
Putty (thin over aluminum and around edges to fair for glass layer)
Glass...

I think.


Is that construction order the same for all the Hobies (such as my 18...), or is it 16 specific?

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