Barber Hauler foto

Hi, my BH pulls a double Block around the mains out to a block on the stern eyelets of the Float so I can tighten/loosen the Main still, it works better Downwind than using the standard central position.
However I have noticed some ppl have the fixed Block more forward on the handle of the Float, would this be even better?


(Ordered the new Tramps today, hooray, no more perching on the outrigger on strong days, but still using Foot Steering I guess..)

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Fair Skies, Max.

Now that's a great photo Skymax!
Are you sailing with the drive and plug out?

Yep, I pulled the drive 'cos it was such a boomer of a downwind run, getting up to 10 knots at times, but I had forgotten the plug so it was like sitting in a spa.
The empty bottle is attached to the Skeg in case it goes overboard.

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Fair Skies, Max.

Skymax, do you find removing the drive on the downwind leg makes a big difference....even if you forget the plug. One of the pivot points on my plug snapped off in transport so I can't use it. I you reckon it's worth it, I can order a new one when I finally compile my lengthening list of spares required.

Thanks

Upyaboya

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Better to be a live donkey than a dead lion!

Yes, anything sticking down in the aquastream will add drag, I can count on approx 15% speed increase with the, (Turbo ST), fins pulled.
(When you are sailing at a cruise of 6 knots hold the blades in the water with your hand and you will feel the drag.)
Pulling 'em will also stop the boat from yawing on the blades like a fulcrum if you are downwind with a following swell, one of the same reasons you pull the Skeg when downwind. The AI seems to sail more happily just off the downwind rather than dead down.


Ditto for the plug, the fountain of water gubbling up through the drivewell is a few pounds of Thrust energy that should be pushing the hull.

However, its up to the Pilot to decide if the speed gain is worth the effort of swapping out the Drive, the removal of the fins makes the most difference.
Although pedals are handy at times 'cos the AI goes about a bit slowly, like all Trimarans, a cupla sweeps with the paddle will do the same job.
If you dont have to tack frequently in strong winds, pull 'em out.

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Fair Skies, Max.

You can buy a lump of Neoprene and whittle a good plug yourself, see below.

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Fair Skies, Max.

Thanks a lot Skymax, great information as usual.

I particularly enjoy it wet n wild and will take the Turbo fins out next time. Never thought about plugging the plug! That's my plan now for the weekend.

What do you mean by the term 'fulcrum'?

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Better to be a live donkey than a dead lion!

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Goodo, if you cant get Neoprene any carvable rubbery compound will do.

A following swell lifts and pushes the boat and it picks up speed temporarily, if the boats stern is at an angle to the pushing swell direction then the drive fins will create drag forward of the CG and the hull will want to rotate around the axis where the Drive fins are, (to some extent, even if in the UP position), like a lever on its side with the Fins as the turning point, or fulcrum. This can be corrected with Rudder but energy/speed/time is lost.

In other words with wind and wave astern, the Drive fin drag at the front of the boat will sometimes want to make the Stern catch up with the Prow, and you get that, "Sideways in the Driveways" feeling..

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Fair Skies, Max.

I have experienced that and wondered why but thought nothing of it other than to correct with the rudder. It becomes a bit trickier when the bow burys itself in the water making the correction harder. Thanks for explaining what this tendency is and a possible solution.

Would removing the dagger board also make a difference?

Thanks again,

Upyaboya

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Better to be a live donkey than a dead lion!

I don't know a lot about sailing but that's one thing I do know, pull or swing that D Board up to reduce drag downwind, if left in it may also cause unwanted self-steering inputs more severe than the aforementioned Drive Fins, particularily if you have a quartering swell on the Stern.
Love ya photos.

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Fair Skies, Max.

Upyaboya,
You may find it easier to make your plug out of thinner layers of closed cell foam glued together.You could make a tighter fitting plug by tracing the outline of the drivewell hole onto some 12mm foam sheet. If you cut it out a bit larger than the trace you should get a tight fit. Vary the size for each layer and you will be able to taper the shape. Once glued you can trim it to fit but don't make it too tight or the water won't drain.
Or you could just repair your broken plug by drilling out the locating pins and substituting them with the plastic rod that originally came with hull.

Now why didn't I think of that........?

Thanks Stringy, I have the rod in the pocket and that will do the job nicely. My I just love these ingenious solutions!.

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Better to be a live donkey than a dead lion!