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PostPosted: Wed Aug 06, 2008 12:56 pm 
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Joined: Mon Sep 20, 2004 12:36 pm
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Location: Tri-Cities, WA
Sorry about being a little late on this, but I was on vacation sailing for 10 days on Priest Lake ID----sweet. Flat deck ports, while not being optimum are no big problem. I would not use a lot os silicone as suggested. It is not ridgid enough and pressure on the port edge could crack the port housing. Instead I would use an epoxy type product (e.g., Marine Mend). It is white, hard but not brittle and adhears to gelcoat and plastic very well. Follow the instructions on mixing (be sure to head the let stand and heat up instruction, it needs the heat to fully cure), then coat under the port housing flange with excess on the inboard and outboard areas. Carefully place over/in the hole and pres down evenly to seat, whipe away excess (acetone works as a clean-up, but be careful, the acetone will melt the port housing plastic). After curing drill out the 6 holes and install the bolts (I used nylon). :wink:


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 07, 2008 6:53 am 
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Joined: Fri May 27, 2005 11:31 am
Posts: 211
Location: Grand Rapids, MI
fastcat wrote:
Sorry about being a little late on this, but I was on vacation sailing for 10 days on Priest Lake ID----sweet. Flat deck ports, while not being optimum are no big problem. I would not use a lot os silicone as suggested. It is not ridgid enough and pressure on the port edge could crack the port housing. Instead I would use an epoxy type product (e.g., Marine Mend). It is white, hard but not brittle and adhears to gelcoat and plastic very well. Follow the instructions on mixing (be sure to head the let stand and heat up instruction, it needs the heat to fully cure), then coat under the port housing flange with excess on the inboard and outboard areas. Carefully place over/in the hole and pres down evenly to seat, whipe away excess (acetone works as a clean-up, but be careful, the acetone will melt the port housing plastic). After curing drill out the 6 holes and install the bolts (I used nylon). :wink:


Awesome!! Thanks for the advice!

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 04, 2008 9:32 am 
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Joined: Fri May 27, 2005 11:31 am
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Location: Grand Rapids, MI
Port install as of last night. I used Marine Tex as reccomended. This stuff works great, albeit expensive ($40 for 14oz).

Image

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 21, 2009 10:06 am 
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Joined: Mon Sep 20, 2004 12:36 pm
Posts: 758
Location: Tri-Cities, WA
I installed new 5” Viking ports on my H17Sport. The old ports, also 5” Vikings, were in great shape. So the why change? Well, here’s the story.
Last year I found a boat accessory that would greatly enhance my sailing pleasure, Bottle Ports, http://www.bottleport.com/ . As you can see it is a great way to store and have ready access to your preferred beverage and they were made for 5” Viking ports, score. And with the Columbia River, where I sail, being as cold as it is the drinks remain chilled, double score. So even though a bit pricy I ordered a couple. When I got them I found that the screw ring was just a wee bit smaller than my port collars and did not seat well. As it turns out Viking makes 5” ports out of ABS (white, like mine) and Polypropylene (light gray, that the bottle ports were made for). The polypropylene ports are just a wee bit smaller than the ABS ports. So I replaced my ABS ports with Polypropylene ports.
I had my madden voyage with the new ports last weekend and the change was well worth it.
8)


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 29, 2009 8:21 am 
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Joined: Sat Jul 26, 2008 6:05 pm
Posts: 7
Hi
Installing my rear 6 inch ports today..small cracks on the tubes....
A bit nervous but the forward ones went in fine last year..
Here goes nothing..
-robbie


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 30, 2009 1:10 pm 
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Site Rank - Deck Hand

Joined: Sat Jul 26, 2008 6:05 pm
Posts: 7
Well, everything went great, there are no problems to report..Deck ports are all sealed tight...
I wish I could video me fiber glassing the tubes...The stooges would have laughed..
-rr


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PostPosted: Tue May 12, 2009 10:33 am 
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Joined: Mon Mar 30, 2009 7:29 pm
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Location: North Bend, WA
It is very easy to use epoxy to build up a flat base for the port. Just tape the area and trim the tape using the port as a template. Use epoxy with lots of filler to stiff consistency and build up trying to keep all off of tape. The filler is white and therefore, may match your boat. If you review the West System epoxy manual it shows you how to build up for applications like this. You can even use a popsicle stick to fillet the joint at the deck. There should be no filler at centerline of port and will get to be about 1/8" or more depending on the port size at each side. You can then use a simple file or sanding board to make the top level. Depending how careful you were with placing the filler, you may need a second coat to make level for the width of the port flange. Use sealent before placing and mounting port.


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PostPosted: Tue May 12, 2009 11:49 am 
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Joined: Mon Jul 14, 2003 7:11 pm
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Location: Detroit, MI
spesce wrote:
It is very easy to use epoxy to build up a flat base for the port. Just tape the area and trim the tape using the port as a template. Use epoxy with lots of filler to stiff consistency and build up trying to keep all off of tape. The filler is white and therefore, may match your boat. If you review the West System epoxy manual it shows you how to build up for applications like this. You can even use a popsicle stick to fillet the joint at the deck. There should be no filler at centerline of port and will get to be about 1/8" or more depending on the port size at each side. You can then use a simple file or sanding board to make the top level. Depending how careful you were with placing the filler, you may need a second coat to make level for the width of the port flange. Use sealent before placing and mounting port.


The problem with using epoxy is that it is not very UV resistant and will turn yellow.

The easiest way to install ports is to cut the hole, seal the foam, and install the port with a healthy amount of silicone seal. Use the contoured ports and on the sides where they don't sit flush, run a bead of silicone around it, smooth with a wet finger and you're done. No bolts required.

I've been doing them this way for over 35 years and have never had a problem.


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 30, 2009 1:05 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jun 08, 2008 9:50 am
Posts: 34
Location: Liberty Lake Washington
I just had the 5" contoured deck ports installed on each haul in front of the front cross beam for water inspection and they fit perfectly. In the Murrays catalog the 17 was not reference so I thought I would chance getting the right deck port and they are perfect (contoured vs flat). After having grown up racing 18's and than having a 16 for several years I really missed the inspection ports so when I bought my 17 I figured I would give it a try and they are great. I have had it out all week on some hard broad reaches and close in sailing and have not noticed any additional flexing of the hauls. Plus the new screw in deck plates versus the old rope deck plates is a major plus for keeping the water from draining in.

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