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PostPosted: Tue Jul 14, 2009 1:07 pm 
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OK i opened it up and made sure the cables were not crossed "they were not". I had blue loctite and divers silicone grease on hand.

Image

I gave it some lube on the parts that touch and rub with my finger. I used pure silicone grease. I figure it wouldn't be as harsh as other products out there. Maybe over cautious i don't know.

You CAN over tighten the screw on the bottom! I snugged it down and worked it back and fourth. It was too tight. A couple of quarter turns backing it off and all was good. Maybe it was too tight from the factory?

"WARNING" The screw that holds the two halves together has "blue removable" loctite on it. If you do remove the screw make sure you reapply "blue removable" loctite on the screw. Do not supplement the blue with red or something else.


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 14, 2009 1:34 pm 
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EZrider wrote:
You CAN over tighten the screw on the bottom! I snugged it down and worked it back and fourth. It was too tight. A couple of quarter turns backing it off and all was good. Maybe it was too tight from the factory?


Are you talking about the knob for tension adjustment? If so... yes this is critical to adjustment related to temperature and moisture that can cause changes in the steering line tension. There is no best factory adjustment... it changes too much.

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 14, 2009 1:52 pm 
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No sir. I am talking about the Philips head screw that holds both halves together on the bottom. Putting it back together "just snug" was too tight. I had to back it off a little. Adjusting the cable adjuster made no difference in the noise from the control on the water yesterday. BTW the adjuster is a very cool and useful idea. I like it allot.


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 17, 2009 4:05 pm 
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Well i did 6 1/2 miles today on the PA. Words can not describe how much i like this craft. Considering a Party boat here will cost you $100 with tip included i have almost payed for my PA and there is still allot of the season left.

I am still getting the grunting noise from my rudder control. Not as bad since i lubed it a bit. I had adjusted the rudder because i moved the control to the right side of the seat. I can not reproduce the noise on dry land. The rudder gets tension when in the water. The noise is only coming from hard left and not right.

I was thinking some kind of dry lube "Graphite?" for the cables. Would this be worth a shot on the contact points? I'm not bit on spraying anything penetrating on nylon cables. I just cant not figure out what i am getting this one way and not the other. I can feel the vibration from the control when turning, as well as noise.


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 18, 2009 6:39 pm 
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Location: garwood, nj
I've found a better way to adjust this thing. Should have taken pics, but it's a pretty easy walk through.
On dry land I lift the back of the PA up with a 5 gal bucket and lower the rudder.
Then I take off the back rudder assembly plate with the four screws. Then loosen both screws which hold the cables in place; there should now be no tension on the cable lines and they should be almost free floating.
Now, free up the steering assembly on the seat and screw the tensioner tight adding line to the tensioner knob.
The lines on the rudder now need to be tightened back down. Keep a bit of slack in them, because once you hit the water things will tighten on their own mysteriously.
You can now loosen as needed once on the water with the tensioner knob below the steering assembly. This has worked the best so far, still not as smooth as the other Hobies; but very doable now. It's much smoother, but still rubs on the two screws on the seat. Not an issue, just steer a bit more slowly and it can be avoided. Hope this helps.

On another note, I've been pounding the fish out of this PA; and it's a real pleasure to own.
You get spoiled real quick with all the extra space. The spots I've been launching are a good ways to the water, and the bigger wheeleez tires are a blessing. Once I figure out, and I'm almost 99% there...this rudder thing....all the bugs will be worked out on this fine fishing machine. MJ.


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 18, 2009 7:09 pm 
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Joined: Sat Nov 12, 2005 10:46 pm
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Location: Escondido
I use silicone spray on my rudder cables and pivots. -- no grease, no undesirable residue, no gumming up. The carrier evaporates, leaving nothing but friction-reducing silicone.

Interesting comments about the rudder. I relied on the tensioning knob to adjust rudder slack -- had no problems setting any tension wanted once on the water. I found that any slack in the line tended to exacerbate the boat's tendency to wander, so I preferred a taut line to minimize helm correction (not so tight as to jamb the control).

Equalizing the rudder deflection is also an easy adjustment. For that, you need the rudder up (which also centers it). You also need line slack. This can be accomplished by loosening the tensioning knob until the rudder control slides freely. It is then positioned in the center of its throw (depending on which side of the seat the control is mounted on, about 45 degrees outboard). Finally the tensioning knob is tensioned at least a turn to lock the rudder cable in its new position, and further tensioned to take up any slack in the system. Recheck and adjust as necessary. 8)


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 29, 2009 5:53 am 
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Well guys i have the rudder adjusted proper. The issue isnt with the rudder cables being too tight. Even when i loosten the adjuster so there is play on the control. I still get the rubbing, grunting noise. Looks like im going to take the control apart agian and try to lube the cable tubes with silicone.


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