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PostPosted: Mon Sep 21, 2009 8:43 pm 
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Joined: Sat Feb 24, 2007 8:45 pm
Posts: 1664
Location: Northfield Minnesota
FX293 mentioned his tramp being loose. Mine was that way as well. While mine isn't H16 tight, its not too bad anymore. I used a pry bar and went through every loop a couple of times across the rear bar. I also replaced the rear lacing with dyneema. Its smaller, and way more slippery than what comes with the boat. Next is the sides. Run the line as the manual suggests, but tie or splice a loop on the end that needs to be tied off at the front. Tie a line off to the striker rod on the top side of the crossbar and take your mainsheet blocks in between the two. Crank that baby down! Use a pair of vice grips to clamp down on the line where it goes through one of the grommets once tight and tie it off. I'm damn near pulling out the grommets on front edge of the tramp, but that's what it takes.


Second thing is the mast rotator arm. My spin halyard cleat interferes with mast rotation. Also with the arm touching the tramp it wears the heck out of it. I tied a line from the cross piece on the end of the rotation arm up to the fitting that is riveted to the mast for the goose neck. Just run it up through the sail track and pull it out above the boom, and tie a stopper knot in some 5/32" line. The only downside that I've noticed with this so far, (I just did it this past weekend and did 3 races this way, so not a lot of time), is that I didn't see an easy way to uncleat the spin halyard when on port tack. Other than that I think the rotation worked much better, less resistance getting hung up on the tramp bag.


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 28, 2009 7:38 pm 
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Site Rank - Deck Hand

Joined: Thu Sep 10, 2009 8:13 am
Posts: 9
Good idea with the rotator! And the muscle you put on the tramp is pretty typical of what I've had to do with the 14's and 17's I've had. I just haven't taken the time to sit down with the tramp and figure out where to do the tightening. I've also been thinking about some sort of insert to put in the daggerboard holes to tighten the tramp when I step the mast. That's the only time the lack of tension bothers me much.


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 29, 2009 10:24 am 
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Joined: Wed May 28, 2003 1:12 pm
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The most important thing on the tramp is 'Not' to tighten the rear lacing to the rod - but more importantly to make the side lines tight.

Just put a hitch in the rear line and pass it through twice so you get some purchase...and pull that really tight - this will pull the tramp outwards due to the side-cut in the design. (Do not try and pull the grommets tight...this is not the correct way - it is only needed to snug them with the left over tail from where you tighten the line that passes through the side. This is the 'Only' way to get a FX1 tramp (or Tiger or Wild Cat for that matter) properly tight!


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 29, 2009 5:25 pm 
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Joined: Sat Feb 24, 2007 8:45 pm
Posts: 1664
Location: Northfield Minnesota
I was never able to get my FX tramp satisfactorily tight enough just doing it by hand. Newer tramps have a couple of spots on the sides that tie to the hull I think also. Some mechanical advantage for the sides, and I used a prybar to go through the lacing in the back one by one, and I'm pretty happy with it now. Dyneema/spectra is also the only way to go. I did start with the sides first though, doesn't sound that way with the previous post.

Another thing I did recently was replace the carpet pads for the daggerboards. Instead of epoxy-ing new carpet in, I went to the hardware store and bought about three feet of velcro with pressure sensitive adhesive, (PSA), already on it, just peel-N'- stick. I used just the soft half of the velcro. I cut the 2" wide strips in half, and cut them to length. I used two shorter pieces front and back just taking it to the point where the trunk gets narrow, then longer pieces down the sides. I did this on the top and the bottom of the well and the boards go up and down very smoothly. I think I'm going to use a router and cut down the center of the board so I can put pull up lines on the boards now. I'm very happy with this setup. I'm not real confident in the longetivity of the velcro, but it was cheap and it took me all of twenty minutes to replace it in the first place. The nice thing is that the boards can't hardly touch the front/back edge of the trunk any longer.

I also took some Hydro turf and ran a strip down the edge of the deck, near the rear beam. It was a left over pieces from doing a H14 a few years ago. My tiller extension was starting to wear through the texture on the deck. I recently was told by a coach to keep the tiller pinned to the deck, so that's what I've been doing. The tiller seems to have less wobble to it when you have to let go when hoisting/dousing as well. I think this winter I'm going to peel that off, and cover the whole deck between the beams in the stuff, looks good on the Wild Cat, and it’s pretty comfy to sit on. On the Hydroturf website they've got some pretty killer deals on stuff that was made too thin, or wrong color, etc. The size for surfboards would about right I think. Also available with PSA, so you don’t have to deal with contact adhesive.


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 07, 2009 12:55 pm 
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Site Rank - Deck Hand

Joined: Mon Aug 03, 2009 11:31 am
Posts: 1
I'm trying to find out where I can purchase wings for an FX One. I saw an old posting from Karl last 3/09 where he talked about his wings (comfort wings). Karl, please post where I can get a hold of wings. I am looking at purchasing a cat, preferably a FX one, but I want to make sure I can get a hold of wings first.
Thanks,
Bob, New Orleans


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 07, 2009 1:01 pm 
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Hobie Tech / Moderator

Joined: Wed May 28, 2003 1:12 pm
Posts: 1006
Wings for FX 1 are available through any Hobie Cat dealer. No Prob. Call toll free 1800hobie49 or look on the dealer finder here: http://www.hobiecat.com/company/dealer.html

Part # 71660000 (current retail $1,134)


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