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PostPosted: Sun Oct 18, 2009 1:18 am 
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Joined: Mon Mar 16, 2009 4:00 pm
Posts: 42
I have a couple of questions that maybe a bit simple but if you cant ask those that go before you who can you ask.
I have had the rudder blades rebuilt after the tops where they fit into the stocks were snapped off. after putting them together, they dont seem to lock in the down position very tightly is there an adjustment for this or should they be able to pop out of the locked doen position quite easily? they also have a piece of rope hanging down which appears to be part of a locking system?
Main halyard. once the main is up and locked in how do you get it un hooked again. Is it a tug on the halyard and twist the mast ?
going down to put the main up so was just trying to get a heads up

Peter

UKSail - Hobie 21SE - Phat Cat


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 18, 2009 7:30 am 
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Joined: Fri Dec 28, 2007 11:23 am
Posts: 599
Location: Lake Norman NC
My rudders lock down pretty tight I have them shimmed up and have the rake adjustments just right
There should be no rope around the rudder cams-rudder blades- pins or adjustments
A scale should be used to set the cams to release at the right weight
This winter I am going to replace cams plungers and springs always keep the old parts and throw them in the Hobie Hell Box

As for lowering the Main
Grab the Mast rotator arm and turn it hard I turn mine to port I think
hold the rotator arm and pull on the main haylard. I does not always work on the first try.
Is your sail track well lubed?
I lube the sail and the track every time I raise the mast
Make sure the knot faces away from the mast on the SS ring connector
Gary


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 18, 2009 1:39 pm 
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Thanks fot taking the time out to reply Gary.
Got the main out of the bag, lubed up and it went up and down a treat. found a tear in a batten pocket so i will drop the sail off tomorrow at the sail makers. These mylar sails are lovely to look at but a pain in the bum when they tear.
Sail has the number 337 on. not sure what year that puts the boat at?

As for the rudders im not sure what a scale is? and the piece of rope comes out through the bottom of the cam plunger and pulls it down to depress the spring and release the ruddrs i guess?
Peter


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 18, 2009 3:43 pm 
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Joined: Fri Dec 28, 2007 11:23 am
Posts: 599
Location: Lake Norman NC
A scale that measures pounds of force till cams release
I think a fish weight scale that you carry in the tackle box would work great
I think that some of the forumns have the factory specs
I used to run my 16 very heavy cam tension in jellyfish season There were millions of them it was kind of hard to keep the rudders down
The 21 centerboards seem to hit them first and push them out of the way
I still do not think that the rudders have a rope anywhere around them
The rudders should only have a plastic screw ss spring and a plastic cam and sister screws holding the cam in the casting
Read the Instructional book online
However I do tie my righting system to the rudder pins
Gary
Hobie Cat 21 SE
USA 415
Stars and Stripes


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 17, 2009 8:54 pm 
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Joined: Mon Nov 09, 2009 8:21 am
Posts: 24
Location: Loganville, GA
I don't have any ropes anywhere near my rudders either.

_________________
- Andy
=> Hobie Cat 14 <=
=> 1978 Chrysler 26' Herreschoff Designed Monohull <=


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 24, 2009 11:41 am 
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Joined: Mon Mar 16, 2009 4:00 pm
Posts: 42
Here is the rope, it appears to be there to pull the plunger out of the cam, you can also see the repair to the rudders at the top( the cleaner bit ) This was cut of and rebuilt by hand.

http://picasaweb.google.com/peterdodds937/Hobie21#5407732028947601250
http://picasaweb.google.com/peterdodds937/Hobie21#5407740223996108210
This is the boat when we pulled it out of the trailer park, sat for 4 years.
http://picasaweb.google.com/peterdodds937/Hobie21#5407726127624639634
Almost there, new tramp looks great


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 24, 2009 9:03 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jun 21, 2009 7:32 am
Posts: 424
Location: Lake Gaston, NC
At first, I thought that line coming down was one of the funniest things I've seen but after thinking about, it makes sense. It probably releases tension on the plunger spring so if the cam gets locked when it shouldn't be, it can easily be released-not that I'd want one. Not slamming the tiller arm down is one of the first lessons that needs to be learned about operating Hobies. Push the tiller arm all the way back while holding it above the cam and then latch it down-no slamming.

I have a calibrated foot that can bump a locked down rudder to set the release tension. If you ever have to melt out the adjusting screw and replace it, coat it with anti-sieze. Also, I never use anything but water as lubricant to set the unlock point by since any lubricant will eventually get washed out and then you will be stuck with too much tension. In real use, it's always wet anyway.


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 25, 2009 7:17 am 
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Joined: Mon May 09, 2005 10:25 am
Posts: 4176
Location: Jersey Shore
I actually think that release line is pretty slick. I could see that being quite helpful if your cam ever gets stuck down- just pull down on the rope and flip the cam up. Way better than trying to stick a flat blade screwdriver between the cam and plunger.

Any chance you can link some pics of how the rope connects to the actual plunger? Is it epoxied in or mechanically tied?

sm


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 25, 2009 7:44 am 
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Joined: Mon Mar 16, 2009 4:00 pm
Posts: 42
Thanks for the advice Tom on not slamming the runners down, as you can see our beach has groynes close together and a sharp fall away when at high tide. I am going to build a lifeboat style launch ramp so we can get on the water easily to get far enough away from the beach and allow us to put the rudders down comfortably. :lol: .

SM - one of the ropes is missing so i am going to epoxy another back in, the plungers have a hole all the way through them so not too difficult to do.


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