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PostPosted: Thu Oct 22, 2009 9:22 pm 
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Joined: Mon Aug 06, 2007 4:43 pm
Posts: 54
Location: Clear Lake, Iowa
Can those with racing experience share some good techniques for the Hobie 17 on areas like:
Main Sheet Traveler Location
Upwind Sailing Position (Center, Forward, Rear, Always on the wings, etc)
Batton Tension
Is there a forestay adjustment?
And finally, after rounding A does the H17 sail directly downwind similar to a H14 or does the boat like to reach a bit?

Any suggestions, thoughts, and opinions are appreciated! C ya'll in Havasu!

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Todd Wilson
Hobie Fleet 10
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 23, 2009 5:51 am 
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Joined: Mon May 09, 2005 10:25 am
Posts: 2570
Location: Jersey Shore
Quote:
Main Sheet Traveler Location


Seems to be highly dependent on weight. At 6'-3", 215 lb, I am almost always centered on the traveler upwind. The light guys seem to travel out almost as soon as they can trap. Some even before. I know that I personally can not point anywhere high enough if I travel out...just can't maintain the same angle upwind.

Also depends on how much downhaul you use. I use the downhaul as my primary means of depowering and I'll typically bottom out the downhaul blocks before I'll consider moving the traveler. Tightening the downhaul bends the mast and opens up the leach. Some guys tend to leave the downhaul on the loose side. This causes the leach to stay tight so they must travel out to compensate.

Quote:
Upwind Sailing Position (Center, Forward, Rear, Always on the wings, etc)


There is no set upwind sailing position. However you try to maintain a set hull trim which is windward hull flying, leeward bow about 1/2 way underwater. So you start out sitting pretty much on the front crossbar in the light stuff. As wind and seas increase, you move out and back to maintain proper hull trim. You don't want to be sticking the bow under too often and you don't want to be doing a wheelie.

Quote:
Batton Tension


Pull it snug enough to take out the wrinkles and then give it just a little more. Your primary sail shape adjustments are the mainsheet and downhaul.

Quote:
Is there a forestay adjustment?


Someone might have some actual rake measurement numbers, but basically, you want to be raked back about as far as you can go. This means that in high wind, fully trapped you will have no more than about 2 inches between your mainsheet blocks. The rig should be loose enough that you can easily rotate the mast beyond 90 degress downwind.

Quote:
does the H17 sail directly downwind similar to a H14 or does the boat like to reach a bit?


Not directly downwind, but deeper than boats with a jib. Put some streamers on your bridle wires. Downwind these shouuld point forward of 90degrees- probably around 100 to 110 degrees. As the wind increases, you can head the boat up slightly and use the increase in apparant wind more to your advantage.

sm


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 23, 2009 7:14 am 
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Joined: Fri Jun 15, 2007 11:36 am
Posts: 285
Location: Oklahoma City, OK
Quote:
Upwind Sailing Position (Center, Forward, Rear, Always on the wings, etc)

Personally, I will sit, hike, and trap as far forward as possible...up until I've started burying the bows and stopping my forward momentum (for me @ 170lbs means about 18+ winds). I am actually trapped out on the front corner of the wings when possible. This, in my opinion, lengthens the waterline and optimizes speed.


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 23, 2009 2:17 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jul 14, 2003 7:11 pm
Posts: 4611
Location: Detroit, MI
hobieokc wrote:
Quote:
Upwind Sailing Position (Center, Forward, Rear, Always on the wings, etc)

Personally, I will sit, hike, and trap as far forward as possible...up until I've started burying the bows and stopping my forward momentum (for me @ 170lbs means about 18+ winds). I am actually trapped out on the front corner of the wings when possible. This, in my opinion, lengthens the waterline and optimizes speed.

Keeping the bow depressed also helps you point higher - the added bow area supplements the rather inefficient centerboards.

Weight is kept as far forward as possible without punching the bows through waves or pitchpoling. In really light air, you will either be standing on the bow, holding on to the bridle to keep your balance, or lying down on the bow with one foot propped on the dolphin striker.

In lighter air and chop, travel out about 4" to keep the main from stalling. Watch your upper tell tales on the leech to keep from oversheeting.

Mast rotator - base position is pointed at the shroud going upwind. More rotation = depower. Don't reduce rotation much at all. Really doesn't power up that much. Loosen the rotator offwind - arm should be forward of the front beam. You need a positive mast rotation system in light to medium air.

Outhaul - set at about 4"-6" gap to the boom for most conditions (mainsheet / downhaul will flatten this out). Loose for downwind.

Mark both the outhaul and rotator lines so you can reset them quickly at the leeward mark.

Downhaul must be adjustable from the trap. Doublesided, led out to the wings.

The main does not like much twist at all. Keep the mainsheet tight and work the traveller. Be careful on an older boat with the "old style" small-wheeled traveller car - you'll trash it in a heartbeat by adjusting it under significant load. Keep a spare (or two) on the boat. Remove the endcap on the traveller track so you can switch them on the water. Use a knot in the traveller line to keep it from running out.

I'll give you the 15 minute coaching session when you get to Havasu.


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