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PostPosted: Tue Oct 27, 2009 12:36 pm 
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I recently acquired a '79 hobie 16. The mast step link that it came with was completely bent and thrashed. After replacing this part, I found that I could not easily pull the mast step pin once the mast was up. It was also virtually impossible to replace the pin once I had pulled it.

Taking a closer look at the mast base, I can see where it has been broken and repaired a bit. The base plate was being held in by screws. The plate was also not flush with mast.

I think that was probably the problem with removing and pin.

My question is, given the condition of the bottom of my mast and the base plate, what should I do about it? I've got pictures here:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/bassomatic/sets/72157622676465956/show/

Looking at the condition of the base plate, I think I'm inclined to get a new one. However, the condition of the base of the mast looks like it is structurally too weak, given all the holes that have been drilled in it.

I read somewhere that I could cut off the bottom inch or so of the mast, and adjust the shrouds accordingly. Is this a good course of action? If so, are there any good techniques for making that cut straight and clean?

Are there any other alternatives?

Also, if I reattach a new base plate, how many rivets should I use, and where are they drilled in?


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 27, 2009 2:19 pm 
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Location: Detroit, MI
You don't need to cut off the bottom inch of the mast - just up to the top of the existing holes - looks like about a 1/2".

You should also re-seal the foam plug that's in there - I can see where it's broken loose. Pull all the parts out (foam plug and metal plate), clean them up as much as possible (nothing dissolves the cured caulk - scraping/cutting is the only way), and re-install using a polysulfide caulk (BoatLife or SikaFlex).

To get a clean cut, take a piece of legal size paper and wrap it around the mast lengthwise (long dimension around the mast, short dimension parallel to the mast) (you'll need to cut holes or slots for the cleats / jib halyard block - keep them as small as possible). Align the edges of one long dimension side at the sail track where you want the cut to be. As long as the paper lies flat, that edge will be straight around the mast. Mark with a pencil and use a hacksaw to cut. Don't try to cut all the way through the mast with the saw - work around the perimeter, jut cutting through the thickness of the metal and following the pencil line.

Get a new mast base. 5 rivets - two on each side, one in the front.


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 27, 2009 5:25 pm 
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This is good advice. I'll post some photos as I get this fixed up.


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 26, 2010 8:36 pm 
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Location: W. Chesterfield, NH & Hope, ME
[quote="MBounds"]You don't need to cut off the bottom inch of the mast - just up to the top of the existing holes - looks like about a 1/2".

Can the same thing be done to the top of the mast? The old H14 I'm just beginning to refurbish (old style single sheave at the top) is missing all the rivets there and at least one of the holes is broken out similar to the bottom of the mast in question referenced above.

Same kind of hole erosion happening in one of the rivet holes on one of the tiller tube/end cap attachments. Previous owner had put large sheet metal screws in but end cap stays loose. Any fix here? I had thought about putting 2 rivets top and bottom in new holes rather than using old holes on sides - advisable or not?

Thanks for replies.

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 27, 2010 8:10 pm 
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Location: Detroit, MI
blord5 wrote:
MBounds wrote:
You don't need to cut off the bottom inch of the mast - just up to the top of the existing holes - looks like about a 1/2".

Can the same thing be done to the top of the mast? The old H14 I'm just beginning to refurbish (old style single sheave at the top) is missing all the rivets there and at least one of the holes is broken out similar to the bottom of the mast in question referenced above.

Same kind of hole erosion happening in one of the rivet holes on one of the tiller tube/end cap attachments. Previous owner had put large sheet metal screws in but end cap stays loose. Any fix here? I had thought about putting 2 rivets top and bottom in new holes rather than using old holes on sides - advisable or not?

Thanks for replies.


No need to do the surgery on the top of the mast - it's completely non-structural and trimming off a bit would require the halyard hook be relocated downwards.

Top and bottom rivets are perfectly acceptable in the tiller end caps, but you'll need to clean the remnants of the old rivets out first. There's little room in the end caps for the rivet tails. Wrap the end caps with electrical tape to snug up the fit.


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 28, 2010 6:31 am 
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Joined: Sun Mar 21, 2010 1:44 pm
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Location: W. Chesterfield, NH & Hope, ME
Thanks. Should a replacement rivet be installed to one side of the broken out spot, or will the others handle the job?

Also, I've read several posts about monel and ss rivets, but is there a rule of thumb for which type goes where (for strength), or does it just depend on limiting galvanic reaction in salt water (I'm on a lake).

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