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PostPosted: Tue Dec 11, 2007 12:00 am 
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Site Rank - Old Salt

Joined: Thu Aug 16, 2007 2:25 pm
Posts: 2035
Location: Central Coast NSW Australia
Thanks Kep - sound advice there for sure.
I did struggle on that first test sail as the sail I had borrowed from the dealer didn't furl like mine. I had forgotten what that was like!
I can see what you mean about the sidekicks improving the sailing in stronger winds by allowing me to have more sail out.
Weather still ordinary here so still haven't been back on water :(


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 13, 2009 5:07 pm 
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Joined: Sun Aug 12, 2007 5:17 pm
Posts: 536
Location: Auckland NZ
Hi Stringy, a mate of mine has recently acquired an Oasis & wants to set it up as a schooner just like you did. He has just bought a 2nd sail for the purpose & is itching to get it up & running. He is not much good at IT stuff so I have said I'll make contact with a view to seeing if you might be able to provide some specific assistance re the design of your foremast base in particular.

For some reason on the 2 threads you kicked off about the 2 mast mod I can't any longer see the photos you took specifically of the mast base (I seem to remember that there were some which showed it quite well). Would it be possible for you to post another photo or photos of the base some that we can see the details of the design ?

Can you offer any guidance that would make the adaptation process easier or the end result better ? e.g. things that you did which you wouldn't do again or things that you didn't do but would do 2nd time around etc...


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 15, 2009 12:16 am 
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Joined: Thu Aug 16, 2007 2:25 pm
Posts: 2035
Location: Central Coast NSW Australia
G'Day Stobbo,
I managed to dig up some pics I took during the mod.
I began with some 6mm stainless saddles cut in half
Image

Remove the forward hatch to use as a template and tek screw it into a formply sheet. This gives you the hole positions.
Image

Remove the hatch and position the saddles in the same holes with the tek screws
Image

Using 6mm stainless rod I tacked and bent the rod around the saddles
Image

I used other tek screws into the formply to keep the shape while bending/welding.
Image

After checking I had the shape correct by fitting it to the kayak I then removed it and welded the mast holder pieces on using 25mm rings bought from a chandlery. They are the same distance apart as the depth of the mast tube on the Oasis. I had planned to fit a mast tube to the framework but after testing found it wasn't necessary.
Image
The framework is throughbolted using large washers inside the hull. It has not moved and holds the mast/sail well even in 30 knots (though my mast broke, but that's another story- don't drill holes in the mast! :wink: )

You should read my furling post as the system relies on those components. I have added a grooved sliding door bearing to the mast base which grabs the lower support ring nicely and prevents uplift.
Overall I am happy with the mast holder. If I was to change anything it would be to improve the roller furling by adding a small drum to the mast (much like the AI) and maybe a cleat off to the side so the furling line doesn't get tangled under the top bearing and washers. :(

PS- Welding stainless is no harder than mild steel welding. I only have a stick welder. Just watch out for the flux/slag. It tends to fly off all by itself!
If you don't want to weld I remember reading another post that used ply and saddles over the hatch. I wanted to keep my hatch functioning though. :)


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 15, 2009 1:13 am 
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Joined: Sun Aug 12, 2007 5:17 pm
Posts: 536
Location: Auckland NZ
Thanks Stringy,

what an elegantly simple technique to get the design right - I love your ingenuity !

I am interested in the sliding door guide thingy you mention for the bottom of the mast - can you supply a photo of this so I can see what it is like ? (Or is there already one in the 'furling' thread ?)


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 16, 2009 12:43 am 
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Joined: Thu Aug 16, 2007 2:25 pm
Posts: 2035
Location: Central Coast NSW Australia
Thanks Stobbo,
Here you go:
Image
Image
I got it from Bunnings. They have a large section dedicated to different types of sliding door replacement wheels and bearings. Only problem is it's not rustproof but I spray it with Inox. The 6mm bar fits nicely into the groove. This the mast that snapped. A mate with a lathe and I repaired it by machining a solid round aluminium bar for a tight fit inside the mast. I used an off-cut of the bar in the end and that is what the bearing is attached to.
This mast doesn't fit into the mast tube as the bottom bearing is too big, so it is a dedicated forward mast only. It does spin freely though! :)


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 24, 2009 9:04 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jul 27, 2006 4:50 pm
Posts: 461
Location: sacramento california
30 knots !!!.... :shock:
Crikey Stringy..
Head for the harbor mate !!


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 07, 2012 1:38 pm 
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Site Rank - Deck Hand

Joined: Tue Oct 13, 2009 1:31 pm
Posts: 20
Location: Rome - Italy
Oasis 2012 with BIC sport kayak sail and hobie sail kit. (Lago di Bracciano - Rome - Italy) :wink:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=diLwljUB ... e=youtu.be


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