Hobie Cat Forums

Went for a sail on Wednesday in 20+ knot winds and had my sail reefed in more than half the way as it was pretty extreme. Anyhow first i lost my bung which blew out on the way while the AI was on my roof racks i replaced this temporarily with a small rubber bung which i whittled away. Then while sailing i lost my hobie logo of my left aka and more annoyingly the cap and line off the lower batten i the sail must have broken off. Anyhow just looking at the spare parts manual for replacement bits and wondering what is the difference between the Batten Cap and the Batten Luff Cap Set? Really would be nice if the spares catalogue had more illustration/diagrams.

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I usually use the on-line parts catalog as it shows most parts each boat on their own page. See if this helps.

http://www.hobiecat.com/media/pdf/eSail_2009-10_international.pdf

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http://KayakingBob.com - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 2007, 2009 & 2010 Hobie AIs and a 2010 TI

cheers bob looked at the online version but only has the same info.

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Oops, I posted the wrong catalog

Here's the right catalog http://www.hobiecat.com/support/pdfs/kayak_catalog/eKayakCatalog2009_Fall.pdf

It still doesn't answer your question though.

Since part 22080011 includes screws, I would think it's for the bottom of the batten.

91011001 is the one I've ordered.

Matt?

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http://KayakingBob.com - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 2007, 2009 & 2010 Hobie AIs and a 2010 TI

91011001 Batten cap is pictured in the catalog right next to the part number on the Adventure Island page.



You need to cleat the line tightly and add a half hitch to lock the end of the line into the ceat... especially for higher wind sailing when the sail is luffing hard.

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Matt Miller
Director of Parts and Accessory Sales
Hobie Cat USA

at least you decal was attached. My round emblem was off of my outriggers right out of the box, hobie needs to fix the problem or not put them on at all.

No easy task sticking graphics to polyethylene. Yes, a small number seem to pop off. Heat during transport, less than ideal application. Who knows? Easy enough to replace though. Contact your dealer.

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Matt Miller
Director of Parts and Accessory Sales
Hobie Cat USA

Matt maybe they could consider making them rigid and then using some kind of epoxy to stick them. Would be a bit more permanent, that the glue they currently use.

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I'll pass on a little trick we use at work to glue to poly sheet to metal: wave a propane torch over the area to be glued. The idea is to just kiss the poly surface with the end of the flame, taking off a bit of the gloss (no toasting or melting required!). It's hard to quantify this verbally, but picture running the flame over the surface in a slow "spray paint" fashion.

Apparently this "oxidizes" the surface, and that makes all the difference. I was shocked at how effective this is. As-supplied poly sheet is essentially not glue-able, but threaten it with a propane torch and you're good to go. We mostly use epoxy, but I'm told it helps with polyurethane glue as well.