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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Apr 30, 2008 1:41 pm 
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Have you made any more headway with your stepper installation?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Apr 30, 2008 5:53 pm 
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Location: Fremont ca
I have finished mine. I will be modifying it later , so I can keep the system mostly intact, all the time. I can't raise mine until Saturday when I can move the boat, too many electric wires around my house. I will post pictures then. I also have a cover idea that I think will be MUCH better that the Hobie cover and will post that as well.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu May 01, 2008 5:03 am 
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Location: Chattanooga, TN
It raises very easy. I used it again last Friday. The only problem is having to take out and reinstall the bridle pins. They are easy to drop and difficult to handle.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu May 01, 2008 7:09 am 
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Location: Fremont ca
I changed my rings out to a type that is off-set, so the bridle should not be a big problem.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu May 01, 2008 9:17 am 
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tkeiser wrote:
It raises very easy. I used it again last Friday. The only problem is having to take out and reinstall the bridle pins. They are easy to drop and difficult to handle.


This saves you from having to remove shroud clevis pins to get the rig tensioned, so well worth removing the clevis rings and pins at the bridles.

These are pretty easy to remove when you know how... or use a special tool designed for it. Clevis pins are the safest connection, so I don't recomend using "Quick" pins on any standing rigging.

Be sure to have some spares though!

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Hobie Cat USA
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu May 01, 2008 10:15 am 
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Location: Fremont ca
Thanks Matt
Do you see a problem using Cotter rings? If so, where can I find this tool you speak of?
Thanks
Paul


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 Post subject: mast raising
PostPosted: Sat May 03, 2008 6:28 pm 
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I set up mine a couple of weeks
ago and raised the mast, everything
worked out fine, had to retension mast
bridle half way through and pole bridle
was a little slack, maybe I'll try to tighten
those lines, adjust knots. the shock cord
that holds pole to mast was too long, but just
added some line and went around mast again
and got it tight, this seemed important to do.
I got different, bigger, cotter rings, that helped.
a little slower but much nicer on the back, doug


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun May 04, 2008 12:55 pm 
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Location: Fremont ca
Put mine up this morning. It was a little fussy, but once everything was lined up it worked great. Doug is right about the shock cord being too long. I took pictures of it and pictures of my new cover idea. I am having trouble posting them, but if you e-mail me I will send them to who ever wants them.
No worries Paul
[email protected]


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun May 04, 2008 4:30 pm 
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Location: Oceanside, California
Here are a couple of thoughts on the ring and pins. They are definitely more secure, so if you can learn to work with them they would be better. They don't require special tools either. The small rings are stiff, so perhaps just a small blade driver or fingernail file to open may make them easier.

Pry open with your thumbnail. Place the nail in the ring within 1/8-1/4 inch of the end to pry open. push your thumb and forefinger in opposite directions to pry open. Slip onto the clevis pin and spin on.

Image

Pry open with the clevis pin. Use the pin to wedge the ring open.

Image

Pry open with a small tool.

Image

There is a tool that holds them open for installation. I think fishing shops may have the tool. Someone told me they use them on fishing gear.

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Former - Director of Parts and Accessory Sales
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Hobie Cat USA
(Retired 11/7/2022)


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun May 04, 2008 5:29 pm 
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Location: Fremont ca
Thanks Matt,
I went with the eyeglass screwdriver and a pocket full of replacements. Another helpful hint when installing this has to do with the winch. You should only use as much line as you need, say 15 ft. Anymore and the pressure put on the line can cause spooling problems. Also take you time and load the spool carefully, it will operate much smoother.


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 Post subject: getaway mast stpper
PostPosted: Tue Jun 10, 2008 9:11 pm 
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Posts: 18
My stepper worked OK, after paying very close attention to the instructions -- it took two tries, and had to re-drill the holes where the mast plate fit with the leverage pole. The assembly-welder got a little aggressive with his bead. :lol:
so, I do recommend it with those cautions.

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Experienced monohull sailer, new to Hobies. I chose a Getaway to get started. Sailing in Northern Calif.


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 16, 2010 9:09 am 
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Bump!

I know this is an old thread, however...

Been fitting the stepper to a boat other than the Getaway. Several questions for those who have some experience, please.

After lifting the mast about five feet off the rear crossbar, I stopped and let it hang. (The winch locks so it will.)

To test how the bridles (the stepper bridles going between the slug and the ends of the front crossbar) did their job, I pushed the mast (while it was hanging) toward the sides of the boat. To see how much play I had.

I was a little surprised by the amount of side-to side sway in the mast at this point. I know it is not a rigid system.

Anyone gotten a lot of sway, especially on a windy day; or had to re-tighten or re-configure?

Prefer not to learn by dropping the mast...

Thanks in advance.


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 16, 2010 9:32 am 
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You will get some sideways movement due to the shallow angle of the bridles. They have very little leverage to hold the mast straight. This is worse when the mast is at a low angle on a boat with an arched crossbar... right where you tested it. You might consider over tensioning the windward side in a cross wind.

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Former - Director of Parts and Accessory Sales
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Hobie Cat USA
(Retired 11/7/2022)


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 19, 2010 5:55 am 
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Ah. Thank you.


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PostPosted: Mon May 10, 2010 3:53 am 
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Joined: Mon Aug 03, 2009 4:56 am
Posts: 5
Location: Canberra Australia
Hey Team,

I got my mast stepper III but I'm not sure about the first step in the instructions. It says "Install the loop tangs in the forward crossbar castings. 4 Threaded holes are present in the end casting." Mine (2004 model) only has indents which look to be in the right place. I started to drill out the lower/forward indent, but it hasn't broken through easily or quickly and I'm worried that mine might be different? Any ideas? Am I doing/drilling the right thing? Grateful for any advice!
Thanks in advance,
Greg


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