What about distance races? I imagine spinnaker locks are a must as holding that thing for 8+ hours would suck hard but what else?
Thanks for the info all!
Locking off the spinnaker is dog slow in any situation - the crew has to play the kite to be quick. If reaching double trapped those sheet loads are stout and after a couple of hours the crew will tend to stop sheeting in and out as much as they should for top performance. This is where the doubler pays dividends - it halves the sheet load for the crew.Spinnaker sheet doubler system
. Attach a pair of blocks to the clew of the spinnaker. Each spin sheet runs through a block and has a figure 8 knot at the end. For 1:1 operation this knot just rides against that block. For 2:1 operation you pull the knot back to a hook or loop secured to a the base of your outside rachet block on the hull. You may need a slightly longer spin sheet - it depends how short your current one is cut.
Other distance racing mods: You can add a chicken line
system to prevent falling forward (and getting hurt or flipping) when you stuff a hull in hard. There are a couple of ways of doing this:
1) Run a line along the edge of the hull - secure to the transom and the front cross beam. 3/16" is adequate. Fasten a loop of line to this line using a prusik knot or equivalent. Put a carabiner or quick release on the other end and fasten it to the trap hook when you are out on the wire. The prussik lets you tension up the system and adjust it for moving your weight fore and aft.
2) Install sail maker cleats on your harness cross bar (the kind you get on a jib. They come in a port and starboard model and you need one of each for either side of your hook. Then run a chicken line from the transom and suck the excess into the rear cross beam (3/16" works well) . When you are on the wire you reach down and grab this line and pull it up and into the harness cleat (the side towards the back of the boat).
Alternative to chicken line: A good footstrap
. Dakine (Magic Marine coming soon to the US are good as well). Avoid the 'breakaway design' - they let loose to early to do any good even on the highest setting.
Other mods:Adjustable trap setup
. You probably have to shorten the wires if you have stock ones - not a big deal at your local rigging shop. This lets you get up out of the big stuff, and in marginal trap conditions you reduce righting moment in a high position.Rotator arm
moved from the boom to the base of the mast - using a bolt through the 3 pulleys to secure it. Rig a system that permits adjustment from out on the wire. Rotate back and pull down haul to depower (even with the kite - that Tiger mast is much stronger than the wing masts and is a real weapon when distance racing).Remember depowering moves
for example, jib traveller car dumped, boards lifted a bit. They all add up in hanging higher and harder than the next team when reaching with or without the kite.
Over 2000 miles distance racing experience on the Tiger.